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Arbutin is a
naturally occuring derivative of hydroquinone
found in the leaves of cranberry, bearberry, and
blueberry shrubs, most types of pears, and many
other plants. Arbutin may inhibit melanogenesis
by affecting tyrosinase activity.
Arbutin has been used in the treatment of
disorders of hyperpigmentation such as
postinflammatory hyperpigmentation caused by
acne, trauma, allergic reactions, infections,
injuries, phototoxic reactions, reactions to
medications, reactions to cosmetics, and
inflammatory diseases.
Arbutin concentration protocols for skin
whitening have not yet been established. Low
concentrations have no effect, while high
concentrations of about 5% or more can be as
irritating as hydroquinone and may potentially
result in unexpected hyperpigmentation
(darkening).
Shiseido patented the use of Arbutin in
skin-whitening cosmetics. Some companies bypass
the patents by using Arbutin-containing plant
extracts such as bearberry. There is inadequate
research data showing that Arbutin extracted
from plants has any skin whitening effects. |